Lisa Reinisch

Future fashion Dubai: young Arab designers in the UAE

From kage's Cinema collection.

From kage's Cinema collection.

A recent assignment for Plaza led me to investigate the local fashion scene in the United Arab Emirates (UAE). Now, the UAE – and specifically Dubai - may be known for many things, but bringing forth talented fashion designers is not one of them. This, I reckon, could be about to change.

After some serious word-of-mouth canvassing and relatively time-consuming Internet research - young designers are not always the best at making themselves visible online - I ended up with a long list of people whose work I thought merited a mention in my article. The problem: limited page space; many ended up being excluded. Which is why I thought I’d share my list of up-and-coming Dubai-based designers with you here.

Before you ask: no, I didn’t come across designers based in other parts of the UAE. For the moment, it seems, Dubai is where it’s at. If I’ve overlooked someone, please let me know!

At the bottom I’m also adding links to initiatives and events that are helping to educate, showcase and encourage local design talents.

These are the people whose designs you might soon see more often in the fashion pages:

krossbreed

krossbreed's pop-up studio at Abu Dhabi Art last November.

krossbreed's pop-up studio at Abu Dhabi Art last November.

I met Khalid at his pop-up studio at Abu Dhabi Art last year. Khalid is actually a graphic designer and has had great success with his fashion projects as well. His edgy T-shirts and bags were among the best-sellers at the Abu Dhabi Art’s store.

DAS

The Beljafla sisters are a driving force in the growing market for traditional Arabic clothing with a slightly cheeky, contemporary twists. Stocked by Harrod’s, their flamboyant, elaborately draped abayas can often been seen at art and film opening nights across the Gulf.

kage

kage was founded by former fashion marketers Arwa Abdelhadi and Basma Ghazaleh.

kage was founded by former fashion marketers Arwa Abdelhadi and Basma Ghazaleh.

kage does vintage-inspired clothes with girly undertones and they do it well. Founded by two former fashion marketing managers, this young label is showing Dubai how to dress up without rolling out the bling.

Malaak

Proposing a different approach to abaya design, Malaak’s current collection takes inspiration from 1920s movies. Sourced and produced in Dubai, this is 100% Emirati fashion.

Lana Nahawi

From Lana Nahawi's autumn/winter 2010/2011 collection.

From Lana Nahawi's autumn/winter 2010/2011 collection.

The words functional, wearable and cosy are not normally associated with women’s wear in the Gulf, but they neatly sum up Lana Nahawi’s designs, which offer a much-needed alternative for those of us who don’t want to traipse around in unfunctional, sparkly outfits.

Naz Cannon

One of Dubai’s most unconventional new labels, Naz Cannon’s first collection is stocked by Bullets & Butterflies and has already won over a ton of fans. His clever unisex pieces are equally popular with boys and girls.

Wasta

The t-shirt label Wasta is doing well off online sales.

The t-shirt label Wasta is doing well off online sales.

Another graphic designer successfully launching snazzy T-shirt collections, Hani Alireza is giving hope to Dubai’s menfolk, who have been deprived of a good selection of urban streetwear for too long.

Resources, platforms and events for the Dubai fashion scene:

United Designers

A new concept store and fashion platform launched by graduate Yahya Stapic, due to open later in the year. Yahya has issued an open call for young designers to get in touch and see how the project could help to promote their work.

ESMOD Dubai

The UAE’s only full-time university-level fashion school of international repute.

Who’s Next Premiere Classe

A showcase of the best international and regional designers, this is Dubai’s most exciting fashion event of the year.

Dubai Fashion Week

Now under new management, there is hope that the event will find its place on the international fashion week circuit. In the past, it suffered from a lack of planning and strategic vision.

London College of Fashion Short Course Program Dubai

The LCF’s excellent programme of short courses came to the UAE for the first time in 2010 and might well become an annual fixture. The next courses take place in May 2011.

Posted 11 months, 1 week ago at 3:30 pm.

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AGi Architects rethink the traditional walled compound

agikuwait

I just came across this on desMena: a private residence in Kuwait by AGi Architects that is a clever play on the walled compound, the structure that continues to dominate urban landscapes in the Middle East and North Africa.

A remarkable effect is achieved here by making the wall the defining feature of the building’s interior as well as its exterior: it acts as both a barrier and a link between the private and the public spheres; it shields from the city’s hubbub, but also creates a dialogue between street and family space. The project is still on the drawing board and due to be completed next year.

Click here for more pictures and floor plans.

AGi architects specialises in sustainable develpments in the Arab region and recently won the Commercial Building/Mixed-Use Future Architecture Award at the Cityscape Awards 2009 in Dubai. The firm was founded in 2005 by Nasser Bader Abdulhasan from Kuwait and Joaquin Perez-Goicoechea from Spain.

Posted 2 years ago at 4:45 pm.

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Cycling in the desert and a city guide to Ramallah - a UAE magazine that does its own thing

brownbookcover

I just discovered Brownbook, a three-year old magazine based in Dubai, which was recommended to me by a friend. He told me it reminds him of Monocle, and its neat but playful manner certainly suggests that the team behind it has taken a thorough look at some of the more off-beat up-market titles in the West (i-D, Frame, Mark and Mono.Kultur maybe?) and come up with a MENA spin on them.

Editor-in-chief Rashid Bin Shabib says: “Our focus is to look at Middle Eastern agendas and Middle Eastern culture and find out what is important in the region. (…) Everything exported from the Middle East is always about conflicts or mega-projects. It’s never about skiing in Tehran or surfing in Yemen or a new movement in the Sahara region.”

Content-wise and visually it’s a joy - especially when held up against some of the other mags that originate here in the UAE. The editorial line is decidedly apolitical, but the Agenda section is full of edge-skimming stories about contemporary life across the Middle East, written by a roster of international correspondents. This is social reportage of the Monocle-variety, but with a lower degree of elitism.

Plus they produce Podcasts, most of which are excellent.

With so many international titles out there, it’s not easy to set a new benchmark. But Brownbook appears to be making the cut. As more local writers, designers and artists get (back) into regional media, Brownbook could well accomplish the fine-tuning of its regional style. If it can sustain its current editorial and production values, it may even plant the seed for a more authentic, witty and aestethical cosmopolitanism in the region’s media.

The magazine is distributed internationally and is available in UAE, KUWAIT, QATAR, SAUDI ARABIA, BAHRAIN, BELGIUM, THAILAND, AUSTRALIA, CANADA, FRANCE and LEBANON. Selected retail outlets:

EGYPT
-The Townhouse Gallery
-Diwan Bookstore
PARIS
-Colette (Rue Saint Honore, Paris)
MILAN, ITALY
-10 Corso Como
GENEVA, SWITZERLAND
-FAMOUS APE (17 rue de la rôtisserie)
COPENHAGEN, DENMARK
-ParisTexas
BARCELONA, SPAIN
-The Rent Shop
AMSTERDAM, THE NETHERLANDS
-Athenaeum Nieuwscentrum
JAPAN
-BALS Store, Tokyo
INDIA
-Bombay Electric (10 Reay House, Mumbai)
SINGAPORE
-Anthropology (Raffles City Shopping Center)

Posted 2 years, 3 months ago at 10:32 am.

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